Modern Androgyny

Andrej Pejic

Gone are the days of long flowing leather skirts and loud spectrums of make-up being strictly female. These generalisations have been warped even since the times of David Bowie's bodysuits and body glitter. Through a style revolution where men look like women and women look like men an incredible movement has abstractly progressed. It's quite funny that mini-pencil skirts were once seen as an empowering feminist symbol for freedom of promiscuity and birth control - now your latest givenchy collection will have males donning them with pride. The limitations in femininity and masculinity within separate genders is non-existent and the fortune of this means fashion has more va-va-voom. Throughout history the challenge of gender stereotypes and conformities has been present. 'Flappers' in the 1920's cut their hair short and adopted tom-boyish etiquettes to prove that they are equal to men where as Men have protested for freedom of sexuality through thumb rings and cross-dressing. With messages of equality, peace, sex and love through the bizarre era of the 20th century these themes have carried on in the contemporary world and gender mixing and liberation is always in vogue.

Through fashion these themes are incredibly salient and through history we can learn more of it's origin. An early influence is the 'Le Smoking' movement by Yves Saint Laurent and it's renown and revolutionary tuxedo for females. What could be more exciting and sexy than a dame in a white shirt, cummerbunds and black tie ensemble? It's present today too. You can see echo's of this former glory even through the Yves Saint Laurent Autumn/Winter 12/13 collection which provides a cascade of epicene yet arousing women in leather power suits, black hoods and a feisty vigorous persona that every man wishes to tame. The result? A society accustomed to seeing women in trousers and soon to be accustomed to seeing men in skirts and heels. However, there are some controversial extents of quite how 'homoerotic' and risque this trend can go. Looking at Versace Spring/Summer 13 collection; the runway seemed to be confusingly piled with an abstract scale of virile connotations to 'flower power'. In short a man in a suave 3-piece suit would casually be followed by a man in pink pants, pink sandals and holding a pink man clutch. 

YSL SS/13 & Marlene Dietrich (Le Smoking)

Same-sex tolerance as a whole however is generally a lot better. We've seen the legalisation of gay marriage in England this month and Karl Lagerfield's 'same-sex' statement for Chanel: Haute Couture SS13 in Paris to show support for gay marriage in France and a restoration of change. These themes are used as a protest for the prospect of equality in the future, and what better do young generations do than protest? The non-conformity towards stereotypical gender roles leads to the classic 'butch bitch' and 'femme boy' among us. Through fashion these statements provide a catalyst for the promotion of a tolerance for varied sexualities and the persistent messages of free love and sex. There's no question that the influences of fashion has made these trends all the more effective. With eye-catching and shocking concoctions of style, statements are sure to be raised and impossible to ignore. Let's not however reference to the disastrous 'heroin-chic' movement which promoted androgyny but also promoted lines of cocaine and unhealthy demeanour. However, the benefits of movements such as this were a forbearance and apprehension of the need for individual rights and personal expressions.

Versace & Givenchy SS13
& Stella Tennant at The Olympics

The contentious 'Mrs Man' model Andrej Pejic is the famed face for androgyny. From day one on the fashion scene Pejic was instantly mistaken for a female and met a rush of demands to see his male genitalia or his birth certificate. Pejic represents the threat against the 'unstoppable' egomaniacal male stereotype and it's presumed demise. In years to come there could be a totally dissolved separation between males and females not only in fashion but in every day life. While walking through your local clothing emporium you may find there are no longer separate clothing or even changing rooms for males and females as gender integration takes full force. Is this sexual ambiguity and nonchalance dangerous to the partition of M&F or will it never ever go to this extent? I just hope not to tap a 'girl' on the shoulder in a bar with a cheeky 'hey good looking' expression to find 'James' with hair extensions and studded heels and promptly run out in shock.■

Menswear Catwalk A/W 2013/14: Best Bits

My favourite piece: Fendi

Milan, Paris, London. The hottest destinations for one to bask in the presence of vogue galore. Through the months of December & January the insatiable fashion world has been fed the most intricate and phenomenal designs the likes of the funky Katie Eary or the zany Karl Lagerfeld have to offer. Of course fashion being the vain, unscrupulous industry it is - it still isn't full up. Nonetheless, shows held in these venues have recently boasted glorious fur shawls, jumpers that sweep the floor as you walk, males donning gold lipstick and males with painted moustaches (courtesy of Vivienne Westwood). I like it. Let's focus on the menswear. From minimalistic monochrome designs, ineffable print textures to the down right baffling - the common metrosexual was not denied a divine taste of the finer aspects of male fashion and stunning new designs to show unique approaches to the autumn/winter season. A dandy's paradise - how sublime.

For me the lines that have stolen the limelight from the Autumn/Winter buzz are Fendi, Valentino and Topman Design. Fendi in Milan, Valentino in Paris & of course Topman Design in London. The highlight of Fendi's attack on the catwalk had to be the sporting of fur shawls and fur lined bags, rivalled by plain mustard jackets and turtlenecks so spectacular I feel to order the government to cancel Summer as part of the recession. Simply ambrosial. The illustrious Valentino strikes with pthalo green leather stripes on plaid suits, blue-ribbon 3-piece suits & the most glorious beige coats you've ever seen. Now Topman Design. Tomato Orange cardigans on hawaiian shirts? Sounds quite ugly. But the genius of Topman pulled it off. Now obviously this sounds rather pretentious but the British brand was sure to establish itself as a high fashion emporium, not just the local store where all the lads get their hoodies. Cosmic Latte turtlenecks matched with cream Parka's sent an intense feeling of excitement through my blood as I examined the sensational pieces displayed. Even the signature Topman backpack managed to stun and assert class into the London fashion show. Could this result in the likes of Clement Chabernaud bidding to be the next face of the brand? I certainly hope so.

Overall I was definitely pleased with what A/W 2013/14 has shown me so far. Although I am haunted by this garish mess of a pair of trousers I saw (not naming any names), I am certain that a prodigious amount of high fashion socialites are lusting over the great designs and awaiting what the next season of style has to offer. I certainly look forward to it.■

Here is a selection of some of my favourite pieces for A/W-13/14:

Astrid Anderesen MAN

Fendi

Givenchy

Hermes

Katie Eary

Louis Vuitton

MCQ Alexander McQueen

Neil Barrett

Phillip Lim

Richard James

Topman Design

Valentino

The Scandalous Man-Skirt

Recently there has been a rising recognition of men donning skirts. Quite plainly this underground trend seems to be growing more & more in the fashion scene & has been receiving plenty of backlash & minimal glory. To many this movement is ridiculous & it is outrageous that a man would wish to wear a skirt as part of a normal outfit & not as part of some glorious Dame Edna 'eat your heart out' drag burlesque ensemble (or some other glamorous nonsense). To me this movement is fantastic. 

Personally I don't think I would suit man-skirts but I do  endorse the movement to some level. Although obviously the majority of males won't be quick to jump on the trend I don't believe the slander of it is necessary. It's questionable why I believe this trend should be encouraged but my answer to that is; it's new. it's bold. it's brilliant. Of course we come to the common conclusion on man-skirts being 'gay' but let me just remind you all; greek gladiators - some of the most ferocious soldiers of war wore skirts. Manly enough? You wouldn't tell Achilles that he was nothing but a 'wuss' because he fought all his enemies in a skirt & sandals. The Scots wear plaited kilts yet many still walk around with the most masculine image & manly behaviour, so is it time for other nations to rise with the trend of men in skirts? Even then, why does this matter? Why the objection towards skirts for men? Don't women now wear trousers? I believe it is a positive progression in the world if a man can walk around in a skirt & not be judged or have his sexuality questioned. Must we deny a bold move from fashion simply because it is 'gender confused' or as it has been passionately described 'an abomination'? The classic plain leather skirt mainly used in this movement looks wonderful. It is a unique & daring look & the skirt alone makes a statement on any mans outfit, whatever they choose that statement to be. It's primary use in the popular 'all-black.' dupe is brilliant. The skirt is usually cut at the knees of the user and skinny trousers or leggings are used underneath to hide the legs & trainers are used to further emphasise the fact that this is a man wearing this outfit. It's eye-catching. It's controversial. It's a fresh look. Isn't this what everyone loves?
But what does this movement mean for fashion to come? Will men in heels become common rather than queer or does the 'crazy' end here? Will you find that as you stroll down the mens section of your local high street clothes store or pick up the latest issue of 'GQ' that leather skirts & handbags are 'in' and polo shirts & suits are 'out'? Will it ever go to this extent or is the 'issue' of man-skirts just blown out of proportion? The circulation of man-skirt hysteria is definitely due. Already there seems to be a community of 'man skirt' wearers that are endorsing the trend as best as they can. Will it be oppressed or will it be accepted?
I think it's grand & easily acceptable, but what's your opinion?■