Black Allure

Dunn in Spanish Vogue

In the circle of high-fashion flames, there is consistently a rare presence of ebony skinned prodigies strutting down the runway, promoting the latest fashion fascination or even scantily clad in a Victoria's Secret feature. It's absurd to say that the industry simply eschews the use of black models and significants but it's evident that their use and promotion is uncommon. Is there just generally a coincidental preference of Caucasian models compared to Black, are there genuinely just less Black models, does it really matter or is this just a chauvinistic blind outrage? Some may say there's discrimination, I say that's ridiculous. Regardless of this minor controversy, the simple grace and presence of a black model is never unnoticed and deservingly celebrated. In a clique of fair skinned females it's inevitable that the silky haired dark vixen will have a phenomenal presence. 

The fash-pack adore black models. Always august and spectacular; the walking epitomes of black beauty all have some distinguishable hierarchy in the world of modelling. Often, some of the most popular and celebrated models happen to be black.  The fashion world has always been a celebrated figure of independence and freedom, with it's influences helping to bring about the equality of gays, races and supporting the voices of change and expression. These themes are outdated. All that is left to do is to praise the successes of these Black models in particular. The late 20th Century and early 21st Century has been a grand era for the rise of Black models. Joan Smalls was placed Number 1 on models.com list of "Top 50 female models" and she herself has campaigned for over 20 designers including Ralph Lauren, Giambattista Valli, Chanel and even Mercedes-Benz. Chanel Iman has walked for Yves Saint Laurent, Versace and Stella McCartney and has countless appearances in British Elle, Italian Vanity Fair and International Vogue features, she is also probably most notable for her work as a Victoria's Secret Angel. Liya Kebede has appeared on the cover of US Vogue three times, while Naomi Campbell, Jourdan Dunn and Sessilee Lopez joined her in covering Vogues 'All Black' editions. Even recently, Beyoncé featured as the cover girl for American Vogue and singer Robyn Fenty has started her own collection at River Island. Model veteran Tyra Banks found fame in even being named one of the most influential people by Time Magazine, while also creating and hosting America's Next Top Model after her career of catwalking for Valentino, Fendi and Chanel. And, simple enough to say, Naomi Campbell is just exquisite Fashion Gold and Fashion Legend.

Joan, Jourdan and Naomi

Recently the most quintessential example of Black brilliance in modelling is the glorious Jourdan Dunn. At just 22 years old she serves as a precious influence to young Black girls and is a social media phenomenon. Loved by all. She kick-started her career being spotted in a Hammersmith Primark and, although she debuted in the Autumn Shows of 2007 in New York, she rose to fame when in 2008 she became the first Black model to walk on a runway for Prada in over a decade. This led to complete attention in the model and her role in promoting and symbolising Black women in fashion. Her presence has highlighted the lack of black models for the simple fact that she's an impeccable attraction and the world wants more models that are just like her. Named 'Model of The Year' in November 2008, Dunn has modelled for the likes of Victoria's Secret, Topshop, Burberry, Yves Saint Laurent and endless others. A desirable female, she has crowned the covers of Vogue Italia, British Vogue and Teen Vogue while appearing in editorials for Vogue magazines internationally, as well as Elle, i-D magazine and many others. Noted for those luscious legs and that signature walk (practiced to perfection), Miss Dunn is simply electric. Mother of son Riley who was born in December 2008, she is an easily recognisable figure in fashion haven risen to being part of the highest echelons of style. This was honored when in the 2012 London Olympics Closing Ceremony, she was one of the few models chosen to represent the fashion industry that Britain has pride in. Enrobed in a bespoke white and gold garment by Jonathan Saunders accompanied with a stunning gold feather headdress by Stephen Jones, Dunn was present among the likes of Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell, David Gandy and Stella Tennant. Let's not call her the next Naomi Campbell because of her race, let's call her Britain's sweetheart because of her forte in fashion and enthrallment. 

Vogue Italia: Black Allure Feature

So what role do Black models have in fashion? Exactly the same as white women do. To model. Although British Vogue hasn't seen a black woman enrich it's cover since 2008, and although there is often an uneven ratio of black to white models in features, I can't stress my insouciance at the matter. It is arguable that racial problems are still arresting in society but in terms of a young woman wishing to present herself clothed in an embellished Prada Gown or Stella McCartney Satin Kimono, there is simply no need to bring up these racial accusations. Should a lack of oriental models be highlighted in frustration simply because Sun Fei Fei (who recently made Fashion History being the first Asian model on the cover of Vogue Italia), Du Juan (the first ever international Chinese supermodel) or Li Xiao Xing just aren't enough? The supermodel status shouldn't be bestowed upon a fixed amount of each race, that isn't how the world works. The supermodel status is bestowed among those that are the best. Realistically, society should have progressed to the point where we don't need to recognise 'Black' models specifically as they don't need to have this classed separation. Some would even call it "reverse racism" to constantly feel the need to climax the significance of Black models themselves and every so often use the patronising method of 'tokenism' in order to 'keep racial groups happy'. Personally I feel that none need to be celebrated because of their race, but celebrated for the model and the woman that they are.■

Modern Androgyny

Andrej Pejic

Gone are the days of long flowing leather skirts and loud spectrums of make-up being strictly female. These generalisations have been warped even since the times of David Bowie's bodysuits and body glitter. Through a style revolution where men look like women and women look like men an incredible movement has abstractly progressed. It's quite funny that mini-pencil skirts were once seen as an empowering feminist symbol for freedom of promiscuity and birth control - now your latest givenchy collection will have males donning them with pride. The limitations in femininity and masculinity within separate genders is non-existent and the fortune of this means fashion has more va-va-voom. Throughout history the challenge of gender stereotypes and conformities has been present. 'Flappers' in the 1920's cut their hair short and adopted tom-boyish etiquettes to prove that they are equal to men where as Men have protested for freedom of sexuality through thumb rings and cross-dressing. With messages of equality, peace, sex and love through the bizarre era of the 20th century these themes have carried on in the contemporary world and gender mixing and liberation is always in vogue.

Through fashion these themes are incredibly salient and through history we can learn more of it's origin. An early influence is the 'Le Smoking' movement by Yves Saint Laurent and it's renown and revolutionary tuxedo for females. What could be more exciting and sexy than a dame in a white shirt, cummerbunds and black tie ensemble? It's present today too. You can see echo's of this former glory even through the Yves Saint Laurent Autumn/Winter 12/13 collection which provides a cascade of epicene yet arousing women in leather power suits, black hoods and a feisty vigorous persona that every man wishes to tame. The result? A society accustomed to seeing women in trousers and soon to be accustomed to seeing men in skirts and heels. However, there are some controversial extents of quite how 'homoerotic' and risque this trend can go. Looking at Versace Spring/Summer 13 collection; the runway seemed to be confusingly piled with an abstract scale of virile connotations to 'flower power'. In short a man in a suave 3-piece suit would casually be followed by a man in pink pants, pink sandals and holding a pink man clutch. 

YSL SS/13 & Marlene Dietrich (Le Smoking)

Same-sex tolerance as a whole however is generally a lot better. We've seen the legalisation of gay marriage in England this month and Karl Lagerfield's 'same-sex' statement for Chanel: Haute Couture SS13 in Paris to show support for gay marriage in France and a restoration of change. These themes are used as a protest for the prospect of equality in the future, and what better do young generations do than protest? The non-conformity towards stereotypical gender roles leads to the classic 'butch bitch' and 'femme boy' among us. Through fashion these statements provide a catalyst for the promotion of a tolerance for varied sexualities and the persistent messages of free love and sex. There's no question that the influences of fashion has made these trends all the more effective. With eye-catching and shocking concoctions of style, statements are sure to be raised and impossible to ignore. Let's not however reference to the disastrous 'heroin-chic' movement which promoted androgyny but also promoted lines of cocaine and unhealthy demeanour. However, the benefits of movements such as this were a forbearance and apprehension of the need for individual rights and personal expressions.

Versace & Givenchy SS13
& Stella Tennant at The Olympics

The contentious 'Mrs Man' model Andrej Pejic is the famed face for androgyny. From day one on the fashion scene Pejic was instantly mistaken for a female and met a rush of demands to see his male genitalia or his birth certificate. Pejic represents the threat against the 'unstoppable' egomaniacal male stereotype and it's presumed demise. In years to come there could be a totally dissolved separation between males and females not only in fashion but in every day life. While walking through your local clothing emporium you may find there are no longer separate clothing or even changing rooms for males and females as gender integration takes full force. Is this sexual ambiguity and nonchalance dangerous to the partition of M&F or will it never ever go to this extent? I just hope not to tap a 'girl' on the shoulder in a bar with a cheeky 'hey good looking' expression to find 'James' with hair extensions and studded heels and promptly run out in shock.■

Au néon

Louis Vuitton: Spring/Summer 2013

What on earth are you wearing? You look ridiculous!
The common reaction to the suggestion of neon clothing is all too familiar. The normal association of neon being a wild 'neon rave' full of glow-sticks, flashing colours & the odd snapped heel of a girl splattered on the floor trying to search for her lost dignity. For some time now, wearing neon as part of a common outfit has resulted in the brave soul wearing it becoming a temporary social stigma within seconds. Not even specifically just neon; the whole bright colour miscellany of some 'flower-power'-esque outfits is shunned. With the ever rising popularity of wearing duller tones, particularly the 'all black' phenomenon which many are lionized for pulling off, there's no room for the man in the bright pink polo or the girl in the bright green dress.
However, I smell a trend coming on.

Now to those of you who are closer to fashion it may be knowledge to you that stores like to stack the best clothes of one season, two seasons ahead. In August you'll find a gorgeous cashmere sweater, plan to buy it in winter and poof - it's gone. If my prediction is correct, around late February or early March there may be a rise of a neon implement in outfits to foresee a possible trend for summer 2013. Bright sneakers & vibrant yellow heels will replace leather jackets & grey cashmere shawls. This is evident enough from Louis Vuitton's spring/summer 2013 collection which was heavily paraded at a Marc Jacob's show back in October. Although not necessarily 'neon' the signal was clear. Piercing oranges & fierce yellows are 'in'. This comes quite into contrast with the popular 'pastels' trend of 2012 which boasted modesty in pale lilac tee's & mildly toned lace skirts. So will you be donning bright pink nails added to the gentle touch of a turquoise maxi number? Will you dare to rock new collection neon sneakers and white shell tops in attempt to blind but dazzle? A vivid stella McCartney sweater for chill summer nights or a phosphorescent addition to your handbag collection could be in order. Will you comply to the trend or rebel against it?

Nike Hyperfuse

Personally I feel that the trend could be embraced, particularly by those that wish to retain the sophistication that monotonous outfits tend to bestow.  However, outfits that are totally neon will look garish. The best way to go about neon is adding it as a touch to an outfit. Just a touch. A simple touch on neon could do black on black number with subtle additions such as bright soles for boys or quirky heels for girls. Little hints of colour could work their way in to your outfits from the beginning of spring until the dawn of a spectrum circus in early july & illumined chaos in the sultry month of August. We already know that bold green is on the way but there's still the question of whether neon will prosper as it failed to make a rise in 2012. How will you go about it?
The rise of hyper-real brightness & flourescent shades may me unavoidable.■

Patrick

A celebration of the style of the renowned Tinie Tempah

So how many of you are still yet to realise that the charming Grime sensation has already begun to leave a mark so precious & so genius on the notorious London fashion scene? Well if you haven't shame on you!  Tempah is 'hot'. Having established his forte in fashion as well as music, the Ambassador for the new contemporary 'Mens Fashion Week' has attracted himself a number of fans and admirers - one of them being yours truly. Already a social media icon, Tinie has managed to represent himself as a respected figure in London fashion. I for one am chuffed that his incredible fashion sense hasn't gone un-noticed as he was previously named 'Britain's Best Dressed Man' in GQ Magazine. In this week of January Tinie was even invited to attend an event at No.10 Downing Street in celebration of Men's fashion week.
"From a council flat to the only No.10 that matters..." - impressed yet?
The sublime event looked like a breakthrough for the artist as not only did he get to mingle with great names such as David Gandy & Oliver Cheshire but he was perceived to have the same high fashion status as those surrounding him. Tinie didn't stand out for being a rapper in a gentleman's world. Tinie simply stood out. His breath-taking charismatic persona & ineluctable image just ensured that he naturally stood out among the great. Literally he just stood out. He didn't need to wear a dramatic outfit. He didn't need to cry for any unnecessary attention. He simply has such an attractive aura about him (even in photograph) that he simply stood out. Maybe I'm saying this because I'm a huge fan or maybe the man has some divine grace about him that he simply 'stands out', even among legends. 
With his eyes set on the fashion market, Tinie created his own clothing line of 'Disturbing London' which is due (overdue) for a new collection & introduction of new goods. The clothing line clearly proved popular; proven by the heartbreaking 'sold out' sign among pretty much every piece of clothing. I was distraught & upset to not even get a slice of his collection, but I’m determined to make a purchase when his next line is dropped (as long as money woes are no longer me). The line which proudly premiered Tinie's designing debut easily worked it's way into Selfridges as a notable attribution to booming sales. Tempah's on fire isn't he. Having collaborated with Nike to create his own version of the already popular and mainstream Nike Blazers, Tinie's rise to excellence is simply unstoppable. Through social media Tinie has also proved himself to be a gym devoted yet humble man, which only adds to his rise to excellence and empowers his already meritorious image.

Personally, I've found my main inspiration. Even going as far as to attempt to pull off some high street variations of many of Tinie's great outfits, I am eager to see what he has in store for the British public in terms of fashion as well as music. Let's hope he can triumph internationally as well! Having already browsed twitter to see pictures of Tinie in a classy 3-piece suit with the captions ‘my boyfriend♥’  & other idolising language; it is clear to me that others may have found their inspiration too. I feel Britain has a bit of a school yard crush on the suave character. But then again - what's not to love?■

 

Kate's Curves

Upton - British Vogue - Jan2013

Curvaceous blonde bombshell Kate Upton has clearly taken to the affections of Vogue Chief Editor Alexandra Shulman. The american beauty has landed herself on the cover of British Vogue & has started  the year as the center of attention for a potential new campaign of healthier young models. The gorgeous young model who made her big break being on the cover of Sports Illustrated has certainly come far; once a busty 'lads mag' attraction blossoming into a sexy, elegant fashion darling. Other than her recent feature in British Vogue, Upton found success in American Vogue & the international Vogue Italia. Her vulnerable yet fierce profile allows men & woman alike to fall absolutely head over heels for her which is proved as she was ranked the 5th sexiest model of 2012 on model.com's feature of 'Top sexiest Models'.

Taking the fashion world by storm & quiet controversy Kate elegantly parades her lush voluptuous body daring to stand among the typical thin & frail figures of high fashion models. Kate's presence ultimately highlights the pressure put on young girls to be stick thin & ashamed of their thighs, with inspirations such as the illustrious Joan Smalls serving as the current expectation & aspiration of the 'perfect' thin frame. With other current idols (particularly among social media) such as Chanel Iman & Lily Cole both promoting the typical stick thin goal, it's a wonder when this awkward issue will finally be rid of. There have been recent rising epidemics of the most glamorous & iconic babes such as Kim Kardashian, Nigella Lawson & Christina Hendricks promoting the lascivious image of the modern curvy female. Even going as far as to reference Marilyn Monroe, whose world renowned curves won her the affections of the public eye. Despite these influences it's still found that in most high fashion magazines, almost every female figure is no more than a size 2.

With this breakthrough of Kate Upton now showing that the nonsense attitude of having to be dangerously thin to be considered 'beautiful' is due for extermination, I can't wait for what the rest of the year has in store in terms of signing full figured models & potentially shunning Victoria's Secret Campaign's that hold the delusional view that skinny is the only way. Having already previously been the victim of nasty jeers about her weight & proving she's not afraid to bite back - I am confident that Kate can prove to be a defining figure of the progression of plump figured women no longer being told their 'too fat for fashion' & rather being embraced. Farewell size 0, you've out stayed your welcome.■

The Scandalous Man-Skirt

Recently there has been a rising recognition of men donning skirts. Quite plainly this underground trend seems to be growing more & more in the fashion scene & has been receiving plenty of backlash & minimal glory. To many this movement is ridiculous & it is outrageous that a man would wish to wear a skirt as part of a normal outfit & not as part of some glorious Dame Edna 'eat your heart out' drag burlesque ensemble (or some other glamorous nonsense). To me this movement is fantastic. 

Personally I don't think I would suit man-skirts but I do  endorse the movement to some level. Although obviously the majority of males won't be quick to jump on the trend I don't believe the slander of it is necessary. It's questionable why I believe this trend should be encouraged but my answer to that is; it's new. it's bold. it's brilliant. Of course we come to the common conclusion on man-skirts being 'gay' but let me just remind you all; greek gladiators - some of the most ferocious soldiers of war wore skirts. Manly enough? You wouldn't tell Achilles that he was nothing but a 'wuss' because he fought all his enemies in a skirt & sandals. The Scots wear plaited kilts yet many still walk around with the most masculine image & manly behaviour, so is it time for other nations to rise with the trend of men in skirts? Even then, why does this matter? Why the objection towards skirts for men? Don't women now wear trousers? I believe it is a positive progression in the world if a man can walk around in a skirt & not be judged or have his sexuality questioned. Must we deny a bold move from fashion simply because it is 'gender confused' or as it has been passionately described 'an abomination'? The classic plain leather skirt mainly used in this movement looks wonderful. It is a unique & daring look & the skirt alone makes a statement on any mans outfit, whatever they choose that statement to be. It's primary use in the popular 'all-black.' dupe is brilliant. The skirt is usually cut at the knees of the user and skinny trousers or leggings are used underneath to hide the legs & trainers are used to further emphasise the fact that this is a man wearing this outfit. It's eye-catching. It's controversial. It's a fresh look. Isn't this what everyone loves?
But what does this movement mean for fashion to come? Will men in heels become common rather than queer or does the 'crazy' end here? Will you find that as you stroll down the mens section of your local high street clothes store or pick up the latest issue of 'GQ' that leather skirts & handbags are 'in' and polo shirts & suits are 'out'? Will it ever go to this extent or is the 'issue' of man-skirts just blown out of proportion? The circulation of man-skirt hysteria is definitely due. Already there seems to be a community of 'man skirt' wearers that are endorsing the trend as best as they can. Will it be oppressed or will it be accepted?
I think it's grand & easily acceptable, but what's your opinion?■